Fatty acids profile of new promising unconventional plant oils for cosmetic use

Abstract

Objective

Oils have been used in cosmetics since antiquity. With the development of cosmetic formulation and demand for active ingredients of strictly natural origin, there has been an increased interest in the use of unconventional oils obtained from nuts, botanicals, fruit and vegetable seeds. Since there seem to be no comprehensive scientific reports on the cosmetic plant oils available in Poland, the aim of our research was to characterize fatty acids (FA) profile and oxidative quality of selected unconventional plant oils which are used as cosmetics or cosmetic ingredients.

Methods

Oils were purchased from health and beauty retailers in Warsaw (Poland) .FA profile was analysed by gas chromatography with flame-ionization detection. Peroxidability index (PI), content of hydroperoxides (PV) and free fatty acids (AV) were also determined.

Results

Oxidative quality and FA composition varied widely among analyzed oils. Cluster analysis revealed three clusters. Clusters S1 and S3 included only one oil each (perilla and sea buckthorn, respectively). Perilla oil was characterized by relatively small content of both saturated FA (8.5%) and monounsaturated FA (14.2%), and much higher amount of polyunsaturated FA (73.5%), whereas in sea buckthorn these proportions were reversed (saturated FA and monounsaturated FA – 33.5% and 51.0% respectively, and the lowest amount of polyunsaturated FA – 5.2%). In cluster S2 two sub-clusters were identified and the content of linoleic (p = 0.0015), α-linolenic (p = 0.0092) and oleic (p = 0.0015) acids caused this distinction. PI ranged from 8.9 in sea buckthorn oil to 135 in perilla oil. Perilla oil and raspberry seed oil were also characterized by the highest PV (225 ± 14.9 mEq O/kg oil and 232 ± 13.8 mEq O/kg oil, respectively), whereas the lowest PV was in walnut oil (0.82 ± 0.18 mEq O/kg oil) and carrot seed (0.87 ± 0.21 mEq O/kg oil) oils.

Conclusion

FA composition of cosmetic oils in combination with data concerning their oxidative quality are useful in determining their safety and efficacy. It is important to standardize and test the FA content in commercially available oils for cosmetic use.

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